Ephesus and Iassos (June 2024)
Once we were back on Terus we rented a car to visit the archeological site of Ephesus, only one
hour away. This place is one of the biggest sites of antiquity. Originally, it was built by the sea, but
the sedimentation slowly moved the sea away. The site was started in the 10th century BC and was
dedicated to the god Artemis. She was the god of fertility, delivery and other sources of life.
Today, the site is a UNESCO classified site. The site is very important, and many buildings are
relatively well-preserved. There is a big amphitheater, a library and between the two, the market
or Agora. One place the tourist guides like to show is the public latrines (toilets). I would
recommend you start the visit by entering via the south gate, as a lot of tours enter via the north
gate starting at around 10 a.m. This allows you to start the visit with a smaller crowd. It also
allows you to avoid the high temperatures. Unfortunately, the fee for visiting the site has
increased significantly, and I would qualify it as on the high side if you compare it to other sites.
It now costs you 60 euros to visit Ephesus while the museum of Le Louvre in Paris only costs 25
euros, the castle of Fontainebleau costs 15 euros, and the British Museum is free but requires you
to register beforehand.
Before returning to the boat, we visited the archeological museum in the nearby city of Selcuk
where you can see various statues of Artemis. The museum is small but worth a visit. It was now
time to resume our cruise, and the first leg was about 60 miles long, as there is no good shelter
along the coast. We passed through the narrow strait between Samos and Turkey, which at one
place is only one mile wide. This place is constantly monitored by the coastguards, as illegal
immigrants are tempted to cross over there. We were approached by Turkish coastguards twice,
but they did not stop the boat. While we were sailing towards the south, we did encounter many
places where the coast has been abandoned by real estate companies that have defaced the
landscape with holiday villages. A real crime. We stopped for the night near Didin Marina and
moved to the east, near a little harbour in Limani. This harbour is a public harbour with small
boats. We took the zodiac to go ashore, and even if the harbour is in terrible condition, the people
are very nice and will do anyything if you need assistance. There is no ships' chandler, but if you
need something, they have a network of friends who will supply it to you at cost. Limani has several
vegetable shops as well as supermarkets, so we resupplied Terus. Our next stop was the harbour
of Iasos. To enter this harbour, you need to pass through the remains of two old towers. Iasos is a
tiny harbor, and it is located next to a small but interesting archeological site. Access to the site
is free, and you rarely meet other people. Most of the time, the site is guarded by a few goats.
There are bilingual panels that give you a good understanding of the site, which has its origins in
the year 2,000 BC. At that time, it was more of a necropolis, but later came a public place, the
Agora, the amphitheater, and a temple. The place is very quiet. Unfortunately, the shops in Iasos
can provide very little in the way of supplies. There is a bakery, but for the rest, it is easier to
buy alcohol than fresh vegetables. There are a lot of fish farms in this region, too and we had to
navigate around them. At the end of June, we decided to return to Greece, so we spent a night
anchored off the island of Catalada only 2 miles away from the marina of Tugutreis where the
clearance could be completed. The next morning, we filled our fuel tanks and paid with our
remaining cash and credit card, as if we return to Turkey next year, the lira will have lost 30% of
its value.
Artemis
Eros
Iassos
Our Journey 2024: